If The Industry Doesn't Care, Does It Matter?
After seeing Chavarria’s latest collection, I’m in two minds. On one hand, Willy Chavarria has carved a truly special and unrepeatable path for himself. Like Colm Dillane’s consistency and unwavering attitude to his creative ideas, Chavarria stuck to his core of Chicano inspirations, consistently innovating fashion with culturally and emotionally rich elements. On the other, slightly uglier hand, fashion doesn’t treat culture well. I sometimes call fashion ‘parasitic & viral’ as it latches onto various topics and drains its host until the designer wants to move on to something else. It’s always superficial, the virus lacks the time and initiative to explore whatever infatuation they locked their eyes on. Is it the designer’s fault? I would like to think that the industry suffocates any desire to expand; there are no incentives to stay on the same topic for a long time. Buyers, the press, and whoever is someone in the industry will quickly have their heads turned by some other designer who is providing this faux sense of ‘freshness.’
In my opinion, it is only a matter of time before Chavarria, if he continues down this heroic path, will be faced with the cruel fate of the fashion industry. Saying this out loud isn’t to promote this norm or suggest that we all bow down to it, which unfortunately is how a lot of people took it when I talked about it in a video just earlier today, but rather to be realistic about brands that wish to root their creations in cultures and ethnicity. Take Thebe Magugu, a brilliant designer who drew inspiration from his South African heritage, as well as the maternal figures around him during his upbringing. The dresses, especially the pleat dresses he creates, combine with the culturally significant patterns that he develops, creating a beautiful image that is quite unique. It’s been a while since anyone has spoken about him in the press. You can argue that this is due to his recent inactivity, as the only significant moment was a dress he created for Ivy Getty for the MET Gala, his first official appearance at the event. Even then, no one has spotlighted his work. Is this a pure case of luck or another example that fashion has no appetite for genuine and deep cultural conversations?
At the same time, I do not understand how the majority can sit here and celebrate Chavarria’s last collection with the same level of positivity as with previous collections. An extremely strong message, a criticism of the CECOT situation and the inhumane treatment of South Americans, and as WWD says, CECOT really was just a portion of the statement, it’s more about humanity. Take the very powerful messaging aside, the clothes seem redundant and in no way reflect the same level of strength that was displayed in the messaging. This, of course, does not dent his design reputation at all, but you can also argue that it could have been something else, quoting a designer friend of mine, “it’s the same thing, the same thing.” Worse, this bubble created by hype will soon overshadow any other important parts of the collection.
I would like to take a moment to address how everything I’ve said so far can be seen as conclusive, suggesting that this is the only way forward. It isn’t. I am speaking solely about what the industry has presented in the past regarding its treatment of culture. I am not here to be a doomsayer, but a critic of the industry. Both Magugu and Chavarria will undoubtedly continue to see growth, after all, media coverage isn’t all to success. While Magugu is currently flying a bit under the radar, Chavarria will continue to ride his current high. But the question is for how long?
I don’t want designers to feel forced to compromise, to dim their creative passion just to keep the lights on, especially when cultures should be celebrated, not treated as fads. At the same time, with Willy Chavarria’s influence and currently loved by many, if the industry ultimately decides to turn their cameras away from Chavarria for the exact reason I discussed here, will it matter ultimately? I see arguments both ways.
For those who are certain that Chavarria will stand the test of ‘fashion time’, I would like to note that it’s also very easy, as an outsider, to comment on how a designer who wants to say something should have an unwavering attitude no matter what. Not realistic at all. Fashion is a business, and you need to capture attention to maximize the impact of your messages. Many independent brands can be the most profound, but without media attention, they seem not to exist.
My criticism isn’t against Chavarria, but rather the industry, and this isn’t advice for designers to dull their activism or to water down their cultural history, but rather for all of us to notice that the industry disgustingly does not like constantly full-blown displays of culture; if they do, it’s mostly infatuations. To the Fashion Machine, seeing cultural fashion is like a stroll in a petting zoo; they interact with a certain sense of cuteness and aggression, and they move on to the next. It’s disheartening.
Two things I wish to see changed in:
We should stop hyping collections until the bubble bursts and everyone gets hurt at the end, or worse, is forgotten. Instead, we need to be serious about what’s good and bad about the presentation, and consistently highlight brands that actively showcase their culture. Let the industry know that the value here isn’t purely sales or who the media point their cameras to, it is who we choose to still care.
Designers need to stop using messages and cultural history as an excuse for clothes to look bad.